Fabric folding and marking machine



March 3, 1936 BIDDLE 032,836

FABRIC FOLDING AND MARKING MACHINE Filed Oct. 4, 1932 2 Sheefi-Shet 2 Patented Mar. 3, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT omce J ohn ii Special porati'on of Illinois Application October 4,

a'olainis'.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a machine for folding and shaping a fabric section, and more particularly to marking devices which are associated with the fold forming devices.

An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the marking devices may be adjusted when the folding elements of the machine are adjusted for producing folded articles of different dimensions so that predetermined relation between the markings and the folds in the fabric may be maintained.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention--'- Figure' 1 is a plan view of a portion of a folding machine embodying the improvements;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the shaping die plates over which the fabric section is folded;-

Fig. 3 is a plan view ofthe bed plate of the folding machine on which the fabric is placed for folding;

Fig. 4 is a sectional view on the line 4- 4 of Fig; 1;

Fig. 5 is a view showing the garment to which the marked collar band has been attachedand also to which collar band the collar has been attached;

Fig. 6 is a view showing the collar bandfolded on the machine and the marking of the same, and

Fig. 7 is a view showing more or less diagrammatically the folding of the fabric edge about theshaping die.

The folding machine includes a bed plate I of the usual construction, and a shaping die which is preferably made in three sections, a central section 2, an end section 3, andan end section 4. These sections are attached to a supporting head 5-by suitable bolts 6, 6. The bolts 6 passing" through the supporting headand threaded into the sections 3 and 4 extend through slots 1 in the head, so that these sections 3 and 4 may be shifted endwise toward and from the center of the head. This is for the purpose of changing the dimensions of the collar band which is to be formed. A fabric blank is indicated at F in broken lines in Fig. 1-. The fabric blank is placed on the supporting bed plate. Theshaping die is then brought down into con tact with the fabric blank, folder blades 8, (see Fig. 7) are moved in for the purpose of folding the edge portions f of the fabric section over on to the die-shaping plate. This isthe usual method of folding the fabric section and snap-'- ingi the same.- Thefolds are fixed in the usual 1932, Serial No. 636,249

manner, and then the fabric section is removed and it is ready to be stitched to other fabric sections in the forming of the garment.

In the forming of a shirt, the collar band is attached to the body of the shirt in a definite 5 relation thereto. In Fig. 6 of the drawings, the neck portion of a shirt is shown. The shirt includes' a body portion 9 having shoulder seams, one'of which is indicated at IE3. The collar band which is attached to the shirt is indicated at l l, 10 and the collar which is attached to the collar band is indicated at 12. The collar band extends all the way from one edge portion of the body of the shirt to the other. Shirts are usually made in sizes varying a unit length, preferably 15 one-half inch. When the neck of a shirt is in creased by one-half inch, the collar band, of course; must be increased a similar length. This is the purpose of adjusting the shaping die, so that collar bands may be folded and shaped by the" proper length for a given size shirt. When the shirt increases in size, the distance between the shoulder seams will increase, but only half the distance of the increase in length of the collar' band. In other words, when the shirt and collar band at the neck are increased by the distance of one-half inch, the distance between the shoulder seams is increased by one-fourth inch. In order to aid the operator in stitching the collar band to the body of the shirt, the collar band is provided with a mark I 3 which has a predetermined relation relative to the length of the collar band, so that if this mark is placed-at the proper shoulder scam, the collar band will be properly located relative to the neck of the garment. The collar band is also provided with a mark I4 at each end thereof, which mark-is placed at a predetermined distance from the endof the collar band. The collar attached to the collar band is always attached thereto at a predetermined distance from the end of the collar band, regardless of the size of the shirt.

If this mark l4; therefore, regardless of the size of the collar band; is placed a predetermined distance from the end of the collar band, it may be used for locating the collar relative to the collar band for the stitching of the-same to the collar band.

The present'invention has to do'particularly with the means for marking the collar band at 0 the places-indicated above. The central section of the shapingdie 2 maintains a fixed relation to the suppoifting' head 5 for all'sizes of collar bands. Onthe' under face of the central section 2' of-the'shap g die is-a'downwardly extending lug l5 which, when contacting with the fabric section, will force the fabric section downward into the recess IS in the supporting bed plate I. This will indent the fabric and form a substantially permanent marking of the collar band at the center of each collar band.

The section 3 of the shaping die is provided with a downwardly projecting lug I1 which is located a fixed distance from the end of the shaping die. This lug will indent the fabric section, forcing the same downward into one of the recesses I8 formed in the supporting bed plate. The supporting bed plate has a series of recesses I8 which are of a unit distance apart, depending upon the variation in the size between garments. If the variation is one-half inch, then the distance between these openings will be one-fourth inch, for the reason that the length of the collar band from the center thereof will be increased one-fourth inch at each end, thus making up the half inch increase in the size of the garment. The section 4 of the die shaping member is provided on its under face with a depending lug l9 which is adapted to enter a recess 20 in the supporting bed plate, indenting the fabric and forming a substantially permanent marking in the fabric. There are, of course, a series of these recesses 20 which are likewise spaced a unit length, that is, one-fourth of an inch. These lugs mark the collar band at the points I4, I 4, and the markings are of a uniform distance from the ends of the collar band, and a. varying distance apart, according to the size of the shirt and the collar which is to be attached thereto. The marking devices have a maintainedor predetermined distance relative to the folds formed in the fabric sections which shape and form the collar band. The bed plate is provided with a groove or recess 2| in which is located a bar 22. The groove at the sides 23 is undercut, and the bar is shaped so as to conform to this undercut. The bar is flush with the plate. Extending alongside of the bar is a clamping plate 24 which has the edge thereof adjacent the bar 22 undercut, thus producing a dove-tailed recess in which the bar is located. A plate 24 is secured by screws 25, 25 to the bed plate, and upon loosening the screws, the bar may be shifted in an endwise direction in the groove or recess 2|. The bar 22 is located beneath the section 3 of the shaping die. There is a. bar 22 of similar construction, and clamped in position by a clamping plate 24 located beneath the section 4 of the shaping die. Attached to this bar 22 is an upstanding lug 26. The section 3 of the shaping die is provided with a series of openings or recesses 21. The bar is positioned so that the lug is beneath one of these recesses, and when the die shaping member is brought down on to the fabric, the fabric will be pressed up into the opening or recess, and indented, thus producing a mark sufficiently permanent to aid in the placing of the collar band during the subsequent stitching operation. There are a series of openings or recesses 21, and these openings are placed a unit distance apart, which distance is half the distance between the recesses l8. If the recesses 18 are one-fourth inch apart, then the recesses 21 will be one-eighth inch apart, for the reason that when the garment is increased in size by one-half inch, the increased distance between the shoulder seams is onefourth of an inch, and the increased distance of the shoulder seam from the center of the garment is one-eight of an inch. The bar 22 is likewise provided with a lug 26 and the section 4 of the shaping die is provided with a series of openings or recesses 21 These recesses are spaced the same distance as the recesses 21 and.

recesses H3 at one end of the bed plate and one of the recesses 23 at the other end of the bed plate, respectively. The bars 22 and 22 are then released and positioned so that the lugs thereon will engage, respectively, the proper recesses in the sections of the shaping die. This is all the adjustments that are necessary for the forming and marking of a collar band of a different size. The markings M on the collar band as noted above, will be a uniform distance from the end of the collar band for all sizes of garments. The. markings l3 on the collar band will be properly formed so that said markings when the collar band is properly attached to the garment, will be located at the shoulder seams.

The lugs for marking or indenting the fabric may be made in any desired way. As shown in the drawings, the lugs on the bars are in the form of a wire staple fixedly attached to the bar, and the lugs in the sections of the shaping die are formed by bending the metal. It will be understood that any other suitable means may be used in place of lugs and recesses for marking the fabric sections. The essential feature consists in marking the fabric section with. a mark which is sufficiently permanent to be maintained in the fabric section until after the shaped fabric section is stitched to the garment. It is essential also that the marking means shall be of a character that it can be readily adjusted when the shaping die is adjusted for the production of folded fabric sections of different sizes, so that the marking of the fabric section will always be in a. predetermined relation to the folds in the fabric section regardless of the size or shape of the folded fabric section produced.

After the collar band is stitched to the garment, the mark I3 adjacent the right-hand end of the collar band as viewed in Fig. 5, and alsoadjacent the button end of the collar band, is placed in register with the shoulder seam Ill. The button is indicated at 28. The collar band is placed in the machine with the button facing upward and with the body of the garment at the left of the needle. The line of stitching starts at the end 29 of the collar band, and the stitching proceeds along the line 30, thus joining the collar band to the body of the garment. By the placing of this mark l3. in register with the shoulder seam, the end of the collar band will be properly placed relative to the right-hand side of the body portion as viewed in this figure. The line of stitching will continue to the opposite end of the collar band, and. the mark I3 at the opposite side of the collar band from the mark l3 shown in the drawings will automatically register with the shoulder seam. The garment is then turned and the collar 12 placed with the edge l2 at the opposite side thereof from that shown in the drawings in register with the mark l4, and the line of stitching 3| produced, thus joining the collar to the collar band. This will automatically bring the edge l2? as shown in the drawings, into proper register with the mark ll. Thus it is that the markings made by the collar band may be used for placing the collar band relative to the body of the garment for stitching, and the markings on the collar band may also be used for the placing of the collar for stitching. This greatly facilitates the stitching of the collar band and the collar to the body of the garment, and insures a perfect location and register of the body of the garment, the collar band and the collar. Furthermore, the stitching begins at the button end of the collar band, and ends at the button end of the collar band, and therefore, will be concealed by the lapping end of the collar band containing the button hole.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is'

1. A collar band folding and marking machine comprising a bed plate, a shaping die, means cooperating therewith for holding a fabric section over said die to form a shaped collar band, said shaping die having shiftable end sections for varying the length of the collar band, and a shiftable bar beneath each end section having an upwardly projecting lug, each end section having a series of openings therein a unit distance apart adapted to cooperate with said lugs in the marking of the fabric section.

2. A collar band folding and marking machine comprising a bed plate having a series of recesses therein, a shaping die having a series of openings or recesses therein, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die to form a shaped collar band, said shaping die having shiftable end sections for varying the length of the collar band, a shiftable bar carried by the bed plate beneath each end section of the shaping die, each bar having an upwardly projecting lug adapted to engage one of said openings or recesses in the section of the shaping die, and each shaping die having a downwardly projecting lug adjacent the end thereof adapted to engage one of said recesses in the bed plate.

3. A collar band folding and marking machine comprising a bed plate having a series of recesses therein, a shaping die having a series of openings or recesses therein, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die to form a shaped collar band, said shaping die having shiftable end sections for varying the length of the collar band, a shiftable bar carried by the bed plate beneath each end section of the shaping die, each bar having an upwardly projecting lug adapted to engage one of said openings or recesses in the section of the shaping die, and each shaping die having a downwardly projecting lug adjacent the end thereof adapted to engage one of the recesses in the bed plate, said bed having a series of recesses spaced the same unit length as the unit length of adjustment of the sections of the shaping die, and each section of the die having a series of openings of one-half the unit length distance apart of the unit length adjustment of the die, whereby the collar band regardless of its size may be marked a uniform distance from the end thereof and also marked at points in register with the shoulder seams of the body of the garment to which it is to be attached.

JOHN M. BIDDLE. 

